03 March, 2014

Eating in Mani in February (Cape Tenaro and Areopoli)


The second day in Mani started with the breakfast at the hotel. We stayed at a pension called O Gerolimenas aka O Pyrgos Theodorakaki. The building is a very nicely refurbished "pyrgos", traditional to Mani region. As it was off season, we stayed in a double room with breakfast only for 50 Euro and even got a room with sea view. Very happy with our choice.

Now about the breakfast. The owner of the Pyrgos has also the adjacent building which contains a taverna called Akrogiali. The breakfast was served there. As the waiter asked us what we wanted to eat, I guess we could order whatever we wanted (i.e., eggs, ham, etc.), but GB and I ordered only bread, butter and jam/honey, because that is what we normally eat.


The bread and coffee were not so good, but freshly squeezed orange juice and fried bread were superb. We ate a lot.

The big breakfast surely helped us to walk all the way to the light house of Cape Tenaro (or Cape Matapan). It is the southern most point of Greek mainland and the second southern most point of European continent after Gibraltar. It took us almost 45 minute to walk from the parking to the light house and the same to come back. We did stop several time to take pictures, but did not walk slowly.


It was a rather cold day and we needed to eat something after the walk. At the cape, there is one taverna (whose name I suppose is Akro Tenaro, but it was not written anywhere) and we settled there.

As it was February, they had only grilled meat and no fish/seafood. So we ordered tyrokafteri, horta, feta and local sausage. GH maintained we should have ordered more, but I convinced him not to so that we could eat also dinner (I am not sure if you noticed that we skipped the dinner because we did not feel hungry after the late lunch).


I did not like this feta and bread so much but all the else were fine. Especially good was the meaty sausage.


One of the best Greek sausages I have ever eaten. Very lean and full of smokey cured meat flavour. The local sausages of Mani usually contain orange peel and also this one.

I think the bill was about 25 Euro, but not very sure.

We arrived at Areopoli in the later afternoon. In comparison to the villages in Mani, Areopoli looked almost urban with many bars and some cafeterias. As we were thirsty for decent coffee, we entered this nicely decorated Cafe Areopoli.


We wanted Greek syrupy cakes like portokalopita or karydopita, but they were off (I suppose they have them in better seasons, as they were on the menu). We got a chocolate cake instead.


The cafeteria was very warm and cozy with fully functioning wifi internet connection. We were pleased.

And there came the evening. To be honest we were not hungry, but not so full that could not eat at all. We asked the hotelier if there is any mezedopoleio and he suggested this one called To Mavromichaleiko, which offers 10% discount for those staying at his hotel.


The strange decoration was due to the carnival season. We were the first customers to arrived, but then 3 or 4 couples came in. We ordered 3 dishes only.


Melitzanosalata was mayonnaisy variety and we did not like it. The bread came in abundance, but was stale; little grilling would have helped it much.


A house special, Orange salad with boiled potatoes, chtypiti (sort of tyrokafteri), and spring onion. Never had such a combination and it was revealing.


Our main dish was pork morsels cooked in wine and orange juice with raisins, served on top of piled fried potatoes. Again, a pretty strong dish.


All came in huge portion. Later I told the hotelier that those could not be called "mezedes" and he agreed.

The bill including wine was 26 Euro, but we got 10% discount and paid 23 Euro + tip. I remember that we struggled to get the receipt, though.

To Mavromichaleiko- Το Μαυρομιχαλαΐικο
Matapan Street (central street), Areopoli
Οδός Ματαπαν, Αρεόπολη
Tel. 27330 51585

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