Off-Season Trip To Crete, Day 4

Day 4, the last day in Crete.

Breakfast we tried at Savoidakis (Savodor), apparently a popular fast food chain in Crete (it is a bakery + patisserie, but sells also the things we find at Gregoris or Everest) near the sea.

Surprisingly there was little choice in sweet pies and we got a cream bougatsa to share (was huge).



It was not bad, but not good either. Sort of bougatsa you can get from any indifferent pie shop.

Savoidakis (Savodor)
El. Venizelou 81 & Petyhaki 15
Rethymnon

Then we went to see the Archaeological Museum. Entrance fee 3 Euro.



It is a very museum with only one space. I did not see anything very noteworthy and many are not allowed to be photographed. And as you might be able to see in the photo, the archaeological objects were exhibited with some "art" works by children. I do not about you, but personally I found horrible this fashion.

Then we went to the castle (fortress) which is located in front of the museum. Entrance fee 4 Euro.

When I paid the entrance fee, the woman at the ticket counter gave me only a plan of the castle. I asked her if it was the ticket and she said yes. But then, she took out the ticket booklet from the drawer and gave me two (for me & Hubby) cutting off carefully the part where the ticket price was printed. Does not it smell, does it? (The site seemed to be controlled by the municipality, and not by the state).

View from the fortress.



It reminded us of the fortresses of Kos, Antimachia (Kos) & Chalkida. Bits by "Franks" & Bits by Turks.



Building in ruin.



Mosque.



Inside the Mosque.



After the castle, we went to buy some souvenir and for a coffee.



Hubby, as a good Greek, wanted a savoury pie as snack and we went to the 4 Martyrs Square (the church is of the 4 Martyrs).

We bought this fabulous tyropita.



It might look like a common country style cheese pie, but the cheese was totally different. It was sweet, milky, buttery, slightly sour and salty. Never tasted such cheese pie.



Very impressed. Lucky you who live in Rethymnon.

Then we drove to Melidoni to see the cave, but all we got was this view.



We did not know that the Cave was totally closed during the winter.



Then we did not know what to do & returned to Iraklio. This below is the cathedral church of Agios Minas.



We were very hungry. TO avoid any eventual disappointment, we returned to the restaurant we visited on the first day, Peninda Peninda.

I could not leave Crete without eating these.



I have never eaten snails, although we eat in Japan lots of those from the sea. They were cooked with olive oil, rosemary and lots of vinegar. I think to have read also "butter" in the menu, but there was no strong flavour of it. The texture was like sea snails. The meat itself did not have particular flavour, but much meatier than I imagined from the size of shell. They had slight sliminess which was somehow off putting, but otherwise, fine food for me. Hubby was totally disgusted just looking at them and did not even try one.

As we wanted have dinner later, we limited our order to 3 dishes, but then they gave us this heavy dessert (honey soaked loukoumades donuts with ice cream) and tsipouro. We were totally defeated and left full in stomach.

We recommend this place to anyone visiting Iraklio. It is in the old market and most easy to find.



We used the car until 6:30 and returned it. Then we had to kill a couple of hours until the departure of ferry. The guy of the rental car shop kindly offered us to keep our luggage in the shop. We accepted his offer, but at this point we were too tired to walk around. So we stopped at "Pagopoieion" cafeteria just next to the Church of Saint Titos.

It had this Gothic toilets.



On our way to the car rental shop to collect the luggage, we were attacked by pepper spray by the police. It was the memorial day of Alexis Grigoropoulos (young lad who was shot dead cold-bloodedly by a police officer in Athens) and evidently there was some commotion. I once inhaled tear gas in Omonia, but was never attacked by pepper spray.

We were supposed to take Olympic Champion, but what we found in the port was Superfast.



The boat was as nice was the Olympic Champion, or maybe better. I slept sound till 6.

We think we made the best of our days, but have to say that the travelling in winter in Crete had limitations. In winter, days were really too short. Even paying more, you'd better travel in on-season, if you have choice.

Off-Season Trip To Crete, Day 3

Before starting describing Day 3, some words about our hotel in Rethymnon, Pepi Studios.

http://www.pepistudios.gr/

We paid a bit less than 35 Euro for a twin room (no breakfast). It was a big room with a small balcony.

Bed

Bathroom



Kitchenette



Courtyard with a pond like pool.




It was more like "domatia" (room letting) in the sense that there was not much of service. Things might be different in on-season. The room was very much all right, clean and large.

The location is really central. This, however, means that it is almost impossible to get close there by car. We had to park ours outside the center and to drag our suitcases for hundreds of meters. If you have suitcase with good wheels, it might be OK. But otherwise, it might be a problem.

Anyway, we were more than happy with the place for what we paid.

So, Day 3.

As the other days, it started with the search for breakfast. Pepi Studios do not have breakfast option. But there is a cafeteria (it is called itself "bistro", but curiously there was no bistro food at all) just outside the gate and it makes the most convenient option.



In Rethymnon there are many building like this one with a front extension of the upper floor. It is often wooden.



I started to observe buildings & architecture, but Hubby complained that he SHOULD have a coffee before doing anything else (such a person really should choose a hotel with breakfast service), so we headed for the cafeteria we stopped the day before.

The bakery-cafeteria was in front of the Loggia (where for some strange reasons, the Greek state sells ancient art replicas).



No photo from the breakfast. We had two cappuccinos and one huge chocolate croissant which, if it dit not in croissant shape, I would take it for toureki with chocolate.

By the way, yesterday's nice girl was replaced by a beardy man and the price of cappuccino jumped up 0.50 Euro overnight. From this and the other experiences, I had an impression that the Rethymnians tend to put an extra on the bills of tourists. I suggested Hubby that it might be one of the undesired influences from the Venetians who ruled Crete for long, but he did not take it.

After the breakfast we walked toward the harbour.



This is the Venetian harbour with all the shops closed. Could not imagine how it would be when all the shops are open in summer. Before coming to Crete, I read that in Rethymnon all along the sea is filled by restaurants and cafeterias. We saw only about 5 restaurants/cafeterias open along the long coastline of Rethymnon town.



After a short walk in the town we went for a drive of the day. The first destination was Arkadi Monastery (Moni Arkadiou).

We drove making some random stops as usual. This is Church of Theotokos at Kyrianna.



And Arkadi Monastery.



Even in the winter it is open 9-5, a rare found. It attracts tourists not only because it is beautiful but also because it was the place almost a thousands of Cretans "martyred" during the struggle of independence from the Ottoman Empire.

After the visit, we were stopped by an elderly woman who ran a souvenir shop with cafeteria just in front of the monastery. We bought 25 Euro worth of stuff and, when I gave her money, she declared that she closed the cash register in the winter and could not give me the receipt. So she cheats 23% of the shop's income from the state coffer. Although not that we were stolen any money in a direct way, I could not help feeling distressed in the current climate in Greece.

The second destination: Eleftherna.

We stopped at a cafeteria in Nea Eleftherna to ask for the direction (actually we stopped for lunch, but we gave up the idea on seeing the most uninspiring menu ever) and only had coffee. The woman of the cafeteria told us it should be closed, but we decided to go on as we were already there. it was the right decision.

The Eleftherna site is virtually in a different town from the New Eleftherna (and the present settlement of Eleftherna is as large as New one) and, at least for the part we saw, it was an open archaeological site. But Eleftherna archaeological sites are scattered in quite wide area and there might be some parts actually were closed.

This is the tower of Eleftherna. It is really difficult to make out what it really were in the past, but the size was pretty impressive. The terrain also was intriguing, with strange grid like cutting on the rock. We went down also to see the reservoir which also was attractive (for those who like these sorts of things).



Then we went down toward the coast passing Margarites, pottery making village. There are MANY pottery shops but were all closed. Actually, there might well be some operating shops, especially if it was weekend, but it was also strange time of hour (after 3 o'clock).

Only thing we found open was the church which had this fresco.



By the time we arrived at Rethymnon, we were hungry. At a souvlaki place we said to each other that we would have just one souvlaki (pita roll) and wait for dinner time.



But Hubby betrayed me. When a waiter recommended grilled pork belly and roasted spicy chicken, he insisted we had to order both and that what he did.

The food was nice and price really cheap (two heaps of meat, one salad, tzatziki, 2 drinks less than 20 Euro), it was a shame that we could not try something more Cretan. Small eaters as we were, we were destined to skip dinner.

In the evening, we met up with our friend who now lives in Rethymno. Afterwards, we went to the hotel, watch TV and went to bed.

End of Day 3.

Off-Season Trip To Crete, Day 2

Our 2nd day in Crete started late.

We were woke up by the hotel maid at ... 12!

We changed clothes and packed everything quickly. After having loaded luggage in the car, we went to look for late breakfast. We sat down at a crepe shop in front of Morosini Fountain.



Melba Salt & Sugar
Plateia El. Venizelou 9 & Liontaria
Tel. 2810 341900

Crepe was slightly too thick, but inexpensive and tasty.

Then we went to Heraklion Archaeological Museum. Hubby had been there last October, but it was the first time for me. The new archaeological museum of Heraklio has been half-closed for years and only the main exhibits are in public view in a part of the museum. The ticket is 5 Euro, but we did not pay as it was a winter Sunday.

I saw things like...

Minoan Snake Goddess



Minoan lady



Faistos Disc



Although the number of exhibits are small, it is worth visiting.

Outside, we encountered some Islamic tombstones, abandonned.



Then we left for Rethymnon.

On our way, we made a stop at Panormos. Here are the ruins of 5th century basilica.



We went also to the village of Panormos. There was not much sign of life except for 2 or 3 restaurants. Well, I thought so. But in comparison to the other villages that we were to see in the following days, now I think Panormos was pretty alive.



In Rethymnon we checked in at the pension we had booked with a bit of difficulty, as there was no staff. I will write about this place in the next post.

Then we wondered around Rethymno and hand some coffee and snack. A cappuccino cost only 1.50 Euro & the girl at the bar was really nice.



We had a difficulty in finding a nice place to eat, because really many of Rethymnon restaurants close during the winter, but eventually we found a quarter filled with small restaurants and picked up one which happened to be a music tavern.



We ordered only 1 salad, fried potatoes, yaourtlou kebab, bread and wine.



Except that they were not keen to bring us the fiscal receipt, it was fine (only 22 Euro, as we did not eat much).

Don't remember the name of the place, but the address is:
Emm. Vernadou 25
Rethymnon



Then we went to bed. It was a rather short day.

End of Day 2.

Off-Season Trip To Crete, Day 1

Last weekend Hubby and I went for an out-of-the-season trip to Crete. Not because we are such eccentric people, but because one of his cousins was getting married in Heraklio.

How to go there? First we thought of airplane, but in the event we discovered that the ferries were more convenient. To go to & return from Heraklio/Piraeus, the boats depart half past 9 or 10 in the evening and arrive at 6 or 6:30. Besides, we live in Piraeus meaning that it saves us 1 hour trip to the airport. We booked cheapest berth ticket (inside cabin, 4 pax share) costing about 120 p.p.

The boat was called Olympic Champion. Frankly I have never been to such a nice ferry in Greece. It was like a cruise ship to me.

At the port we met with the groom-to-be and he transferred us to our Hotel by car. It was very nice of him to wake up so early in the morning to meet us.

We booked the hotel by booking.com as usual. It was called Kronos, 45 Euro for a double room without breakfast. Eventually we could have been able to pay only 45 Euro without booking, but as an advantage, we were given a room with sea view (which would have incurred 10 Euro premium if we had not booked).



The interior was pretty good and looked recently renovated.



Simple but clean & comfortable.



45 Euro was a good deal.

As it was still dark, we decided to stay in the room until the day broke.

After a rest, the first thing I, or rather Hubby, had to do was breakfast. If we paid some extra Euro p.p. we could have had breakfast at hotel, but I do not like much the breakfast at low budget hotels (due to mediocre coffee, day-old bread, synthetic jam, etc), so we went out.

In nice cafeterias in central Iraklio, the coffees are not much cheaper than in central Athens. This cappuccino cost 3.50 Euro, if I remember well.



Unfortunately this cafeteria did not have anything can be eaten as breakfast, but at least they gave us these pieces of cake. In fact, many of the cafeterias in Iraklio offer some accompaniments.

Then we strolled into the market.



Although it was winter, greengrocers were full of colours.



And bakeries were full of interesting snacks. These in the photo are pitakia, i.e. small pies.



The residents of Heraklio are so lucky to be able to buy these goodies everyday. Another thing of note (that we noticed the day after) was that many bakeries are open even on Sundays and people can buy fresh bread every day. Lucky them.

Walking around, we found even a Chinese restaurant which was offering buffet lunch for 8 Euro! I wish they open a branch in Athens, or, even better, in Piraeus.



It was very attractive, but it was not POSSIBLE for us to eat Chinese on the first day in Crete.

We went back to the market and entered a mezedopoleio called Peninda-Peninda, which was visibly busier than the other eateries in the market. And it was not without reason. The food was very good and price was reasonable.



We were very happy with our choice.

Then we went back to the hotel to have a rest again. Not because we were tired, but because Greek wedding continues well into after midnight.

The ceremony was held in a church in the suburb of Iraklio, called Ag. Ioannis Knossou. Not because it was dedicated to a Minoan saint, but because it is standing on the road to Knossos.



Can you see that some men were wearing white racy cloth on their shoulders. We were explained that only the relatives of the marrying couple wear it. Afterwards, someone said also it should be valid also for female relatives, but we only saw men wearing it.

After the ceremony, we moved to Archanes for wedding party. I was told by one of the relatives that Archanes was a Cretan traditional village. So I imagined that the party was to be held in a traditional way.

How misleading was his info and how wrong was my presumption. Actually the place was a large concert hall (bouzoukia) and its capacity could be as much as 2500 (though the participants were only some hundreds)!



The party continued into the morning, although we left at 3:30. It was a good idea that we rented a car. Otherwise we should have stayed until the morning.

We we went back to the hotel it was well past 4 o'clock.

(End of the Day 1)