Open Day Sunday in Athens

Greece, which is in recession for years, has been of course under a pressure to liberalize the market, but it has been and is still hesitant to liberalize shop opening hours and opening days. Finally, however, it has started to change it. The shops in Athens and Piraeus could open on the Sunday 3rd November, if they wanted to, to coincide with the mid-season sale.

It was a very warm & nice day, so we decided to take a look at the situation in central Athens. We parked our car somewhere near Zappeio and walked toward Syntagma Square. Here are some snaps from our 90-min stroll.

In Philellinon Street, we saw this new shop in preparation. It looked like a large gourmet food shop.

There are some small grocery stores in Voulis and Nikis streets, but this one seemed larger than these. It is a welcome addition, as far as it does not put "tourist" price.

The center of Athens was full of people. We had difficulty even just to walk.

People here.

People there.

People everywhere.

Of course not everybody was shopping, but there was a good number of locals with shopping bag. I saw later on TV news that only some tens of percents of the shops actually opened on that Sunday, but as far as the central Athens - Ermou Street and around - most of the shops were open, even some small and old shops around Athinas Street. I hope that every workers get repaid for their extra efforts.

We walked from Syntagma to Kapnikarea Church and then walked back along Kolokotroni Street where many new eateries an bars have opened.

Like this one. Booze Cooperativa.

And another one of which name I am not sure (it was written, but the letters so small and complicated that I could not read).

And a souvlaki shop. Several years ago, there was only a few choices if we wanted souvlaki in central Athens, but now choices are plenty. I take this as a sign of decreasing rent in the area.

I stopped here because it was selling souvlaki with revythokeftes (Greek falafel). GH looked at me in a strange manner and bought a pork souvlaki for himself.

The revythokeftes wasn't fried on order, but tasted quite good. I put yogurt sauce in, but could have chosen talamosalata or/and hummus. It was nice to see souvlaki with a bit of fantasy. I liked the fact that the potatoes were not frozen. I made GH try mine. He said it was nice but his pork souvlaki was nicer.

One souvlaki wrap costs 2 Euro here.

Tachyfagion Ellinikon - Ελληνικόν Ταχυφαγείον
Kolokotroni 39, Central Athens
Κολοκοτρώνη 39 , Σύνταγμα, Αθήνα
Tel. 210-3312138

Hot Hot Burger. The absolute winners of Athens in economic crisis are the shops that sell cheap fast food (souvlaki, pies, sandwiches, etc). Until recently burger bar was unthinkable in such a central area, but now here you are!

Montalbano. I am not sure that this is. Surely it sells coffees and drinks, but not sure if they have food.

One thing attracted my attention was "dolci siciliani" written on the board. I need to go back and check what it is about.

Here is Barley Cargo. This is a new place by a normal standard, but is one of the oldest of the new shops that appeared like mushrooms in the area. It sells a wide variety of beers and some food to go with. I have never tried it, but have heard that it was good and affordable.

Another new bar, Bank Job.

And more bars.

Then we walked toward Kolonaki, along Voukourestiou Street. There we met "C".

We got close to see what it was and found out it was a campaign against Hepatitis C.

In Kolonaki, even a supermarket was open.

At this point, a cousin called us to meet up for a coffee in Nea Smyrni and we left the center. In Nea Smyrni we saw some shops were open till 8 in the evening.

In Greece there is quite a lot of people who do not agree to Sunday openings, because it infringes the workers' right. On the other hand, there are so many people who work on Sundays, like people work in tourism sector, hospitality sector, service sector (including those who work in public transportation), pastry shops and corner shops. How about those people's right? Surely there should be a way to compromise between worker's right and freedom to work. It might difficult to find it in the crisis Greece, but this is another, if related, issue.

Shadows of 5 May Riot

These are the photos I took on the 8th Mary 2010 (Sat.) morning on Sygrou and Amalias Streets. They show damages afflicted on the 5th May when anti austerity measure demonstrations turned into violent.

They never meant to be violent and in major part remained to be peaceful. However, as often happens in Athens, some extreme activists took an upper hand. Three bank employees were choked to death by the smoke caused by fire and many material damages were made. Even innocent tourists passing Syntagma Square suffered from tear gas.

I recognised that people have the right to protest, but no one has right to bleak windows of shops and hotels from which many ordinary people's earnings are coming. It is exasperating that I've never heard of anyone arrested for these criminal acts.








This one below is a windon of Athens Gate Hotel.






As the consequence of this and of successive strikes, tourism - Greece's one of the few ways of earning from abroad - is suffering; 20,000 hotel reservations were cancelled in successive days.

Greeks are choking their own throats. Could anyone help them?

Athens in Spring 2

Yesterday was Good Friday and we went to the Church in the evening. The church was filled with the small of flowers (of epitaphios and of the shower of flower petals during the mass) and of bee wax (the candles used in the church are often from bee wax). We marched about half an hour with epitaphios holding candles in hand. It was beautiful. The church and religion have many ugly things, but I will be sorry, if we don't have there religious ceremonies.

Tonight is the Anastasi (Resurrection) night and I won't miss it.

**********************

But for now I continue with the photographs I took in Athens this Wednesday.

Without really knowing I strolled into Exarchia.



In Exarchia there are many beautiful neo-classical buildings and some are well maintained.



I feel upset to see these buildings damaged by ugly graffiti. I hope these anarchists give up Exarchia and go to live in some country where actually there is no government. They should be able to find some in Africa or in South America. Then they will learn what anarchy really means.

Generally speaking Athenian graffitists do not have much of artistic talent. This is a rare example of nice graffiti.



This is a park in Exarchia that looked like an abandoned building site. Maybe really it is.



Then I walked down by the Archaeological Museum toward Omonia. I found a Romanian restaurant.



Well, the big sign board says "To Iasio - traditional kafenio" but just below it says Iasu (?) Cafe-Restaurant Romanescu.

And next to it is a Kurdish club with many posters of Mr. Abdullah Öcalan. I would be more interested in Kurdish cuisine than in Romanian, but it does not seem to serve food. It is a pity.



I ended my stroll at Omonia Square. I have always loved Oriental sort of confusion around Omonia. It is getting international and more exiting. It is really a shame that it is getting dangerous as well.

Kali Anastasi everyone who celebrate it!

P.S. On Gate to Greece website, I uploaded a page on Sparta Archaeological Museum and the Perivleptos Monastery in Mystras.

Athens in Spring 1

From this Monday, the Holy Week started. Although those who practice Lenten fasting
to the letters are absolute minority in Greece, not a few do some effort not to eat meat at least. There are church service every evening (and other times, but I am hazy how often are they) and many go to the church to receive communion. TV keep on showing biblical and Christian films to remind us why we celebrate the Easter at all!

Even a show window of clothes shop (this is Prince Oliver in Piraeus) has religious theme.

Christ and Book of Triodion!


Yesterday it was very warm. I went to Athens to smell the air of spring and Easter.

I took 040 bus to go to Athens. Contrary to what it was said before, the works of Ilektriko (Metro No 1) won't finish by the Easter and will continue into the autumn. According to a friend of mine who read on a newspaper, the section Faliro-Kallithea won't open - at the earliest they should add - until May. It is so annoying. Personally it is more annoying than the rise of value added tax.

In Syntagma. This old souvlatzidiko on Odos Apollonos, just in front of Furin Kazan Japanese restaurant, is under renewal work. (I actually ate here once).

I hope they finish before the completion of Ilektriko renewal. (But of course!)

Then I went to Panepistimiou Street to check out the new French bakery Paul. Its opening was announced many months ago and the building looks complete, but every time I pass in front, it is closed, although the light was on inside. Has it opened at all?

The people (a family of three) in the photo looked at a loss. I waited for them to leave to take a photo, but they didn't and kept on muttering something going to and fro in front of the shop. Were they disappointed customers?

Then I walked toward the Panepistimio and then turned to the north. There I found the patisserie Asimakopouloi.

It is one of the oldest pastry shops in Athens (since 1915) and pretty famous, but I have never understood where it was. Now I know. There was quite a lot of people who were buying Tsoureki (Easter sweet bread) and other sweets.

And in front, there was this shop. Do you see what they sell?

This is a candle shop.

They are not normal candles, but lambadas!
No, it isn't a Latin dance. ;)
Lambada is a candle that the Godparent gives to the Godchild at the baptism, and later on they have to give a new one on every Easter while the Godchild grows up (until when, I don't know, but at certain point it stops) together with Easter presents. It is quite a big and long-term responsibility to be a Godparent.
By the way, Hubby said that he had seen Julia Alexandratou lambada on TV. Has anyone seen it? (No, he did not say it today, i.e. 1st April).

(To be continued.... if I want to)

Athens Rubbish Chaos

In Athens the garbage collectors' strike has been on for almost two weeks and now the central Athens is full of garbage and is actually quite stinky. Thank God this was not happening in summer.

We went to Gazi yesterday evening and look how things are!



And



It is not only in Gazi. Even in Syntagma and Ermou Street, the situation is almost the same.

I heard that they will start collecting the garbage from today, but the clearing up won't be immediate. I understand that the garbage people have the right to strike, but leaving things as they are is irresponsible. The workers will say that it is government's responsibility. I don't buy that 100%. If you get the pay to do something, it is ALSO their responsibility.

On the other hand, the recycling finally came to Piraeus.



Checked the container if the people are behaving well.



I did not see any kitchen garbage or anything, but someone already thrown his/her recycling-bag which we are supposed to be keep on using. Don't know what to say.

Nostalgic Athens

Comparing to other European capitals, Athens does not have shining beauty that one can perceive on the first look. At least, it was my first impression of Athens, when I visited here more than 10 years ago. Look Rome or Paris, or even London or Lisbon, it is difficult not to be impressed by the beauty and the historical and cultural heritage they possess. There is no or little orderliness or cleanliness of German or North European capitals, either.

In Athens, Acropolis is beautiful and the Parliament building is orderly and impressive, but other parts are characterised more by ugly building of 60's and 70's or older buildings heavily in ruin. Even Plaka, relatively well preserved area, is so full of kitsch souvenir shops and ripping-off tourist restaurants, might disappoint the visitors.

But, on the second and third look, Athens has its own charm; something between Oriental and European, something old and new, something kitsch and chic. It is not that striking beauty of Paris or Rome, but it is a beauty of its kind.

One of its charm is the sense of nostalgia. Neo-classic buildings in ruin or in semi-ruin, ivy, narrow streets.

Shops that have everything and anything of their speciality. This shop below sells mirrors and glasses (it looks in ruin, but is alive and open).

Entrance mat shop, with all merchandise on display.

This shop sells all the small things made from metal. These are devices to catch creatures in water.

Old style mouse catchers of the kind I have only seen in animated cartoon, Tom & Jerry.

In Greece, also these metal things are still made by hand.

All these photos are shop near Monastiraki Square, very central Athens. All is very confused, but I started to appreciate the beauty in it.

New Entry: Platon's Academy

I uploaded a page on the Academy of Plato in Athenian suburb.

http://www.mesogeia.net/athens/places/platonacademy/platonacademy_en.html

Despite the notoriety of Plato and the Academy, this archaeological site is relatively unknown, and it is understandable to a certain degree. It is not in the central Athens and the remains are not spectacular in any sense. Besides, the site is badly neglected, although it is organised as an archaeological park.

We desisted to go close to one of the best preserved parts (or probably the best preserved part), because there were foreign workers drinking heavily (as you see in the photo above). One of them posed for me, but the others did not look happy that I was taking photographs (some might be illegal workers; who knows?).

Partly because we visited on a Sunday, Platon Street toward the park was quiet. We found this restaurant "Platonikos Erotas - Πλατωνικός Έρωτας (Platonic Love)", but it was closed down (there was a "for lease" sign in front).



Greeks sometimes paint their houses in nice colours.

This building isn't well taken care of, but it is nevertheless a nice presence in a generally grey Athenian suburb.