What We Ate in Gytheio and Around 1

GH and I went to Gytheio in Lakonia, South Peloponnese for summer vacation.

Earlier in the year we were planning to travel to Crete and spend a week. But, then, Syriza triggered the capital control and it seemed too risky to buy ferry tickets and prepay hotels.

So we booked a cozy room in front of beach in a village near Monemvasia, thinking it would be nice to explore the area we have never spent much time.

This plan failed too because of some problem in the family and we just had to pick anything acceptable in the highest season. Not that Gytheio is an unattractive place to spend summer vacation (on the contrary!), but the fact that we have been there twice in the past made it a less interesting choice for us.

Here are some photos from Gytheio and around, if you are interested in planning a trip.
http://www.mesogeia.net/trip/lakonia/gythio_en.html
http://greece.mesogeia.net/beaches-near-gytheio/

As always, I concentrate here on the food. We spent 5 nights there and I can say that I have a good overview of the restaurant scene in the area.

*******

The first place where we ate was the most low-key of all. Gytheio is only about 3.5 to 4 hours drive from Athens. Having left our home at 8 o'clock in the morning to avoid traffic, even with some stops for coffee and toilet, we were already in Gytheio around 1 o'clock in the afternoon. The hotel room was available only from 2 o'clock, so we went out to eat to kill some time. GH was thirsty and wanted to settle somewhere close . That was why we settle here that had shade and fan (he tends to avoid air-conditioning, as many Greeks do).

It is one of the tavernas and cafes standing around the square toward the end of Vasiliou Pavlou Street and is called Treis Laloun. (By the way, the bakery next to the taverna in the photo makes excellent cheese pies; try especially 'horiatiki tyropita', if they have).

The menu is classic Greek one and has a very wide range of food, both meat and fish. We opted for souvlaki, but seafood on the other tables looked good.

Bread came grilled, with olive oil and oregano. Tomato and cucumber salad was also fine, although I wanted the portion to be larger.

Tzatziki was very thick and creamy. The best dish we had at this taverna.

Gemista (staffed tomatoes).

Souvlaki "Tris Laloun" tasted fine, but again small.

With a bottle of beer, the bill was 20 Euro. Food was fine, if nothing special. You'd better order an extra dish, as portion is small.

Tris Laloun - ΤΡΕΙΣ ΛΑΛΟΥΝ
Gytheio, Laconia
Tel. 27334 00123

********

In the first evening, we went to a fish taverna called Trata. I had wanted to visit this place for years, not because it is on the top of Tripadvisor list (at this moment, it actually is), but because I missed it the last 2 occasions for some reason or another regardless of the recommendation I received 5 years ago.

To start, we ordered a boiled green (horta) and this zucchini cake. It was made from zucchini, feta cheese, egg and herbs. Pretty nice and interesting dish.

Fried calamari was also well executed and in a large portion.

We had also a portion of shrimp spaghetti (garidomakaronada), which was a disappointment. Admitted that the price is quite low (8 Euro), I would not order again over-boiled spaghetti with 5 or 6 small shrimps tossed in. I did not like the spice (cinnamon?) in the tomato sauce.

The total bill came to 27 Euro, which is quite reasonable in Gytheio where the food tend to be expensive for a regional town.

So if you keep your food expense low and still want to have a nice Greek food, Trata is a good choice. The owners were very friendly too. But I do not think the food is top-notch. I did not like the white wine with vinegary flavor either.

I Trata - Η Τράτα
Tzanni Tzanetaki
Tel. 27330-24429

Rakaki @ Kaisariani

It has been a couple of month ago since we visited Rakaki in Kaisariani. It is a Cretan restaurant in the Kaisariani Square. As it was already a good season, there were many tables outside. The indoor space is very limited.

The bread came with a cheese dip and small Cretan olives. 1.50 Euro per a head.

Under the bread there were some dried harbs and their fragrance filled our table all through the meal.

They just put a bottled water even if you do not order. 1.70 Euro. It was Cretan water I have never seen before.

We ordered only 3 plates, as we were not hungry and also the price looked a bit high. When the price looks too high in tavernas in Greece, there are two possibilities. One is just because they can charge as much as they want. The other is because portion size is larger than normal. Anyway, in both cases, it is better not to order too many things.

The first dish was a salad of almyra green, boiled potato and spring onion. 7.10 Euro. I have never tries this combination and it turned out to be really good. Because of the potatoes, it becomes filling, too.

Baked kataifi with cheese filling, served with honey and what I think was onion seeds. Enjoyable. Portion size was rather small. 6.30 Euro.

For the main dish, we ordered a stewed rooster with handmade pasta. 9.90 Euro. It was a rather indifferent dish and the meat was extremely small (note that these 2 pieces are on bones).

At the end we were offered glasses of sweet cinnamon drink without alcohol. With one bottle of beer, the meal with 3 dishes came above 30 Euro.

All in all, the food was good, but the price looked too high for what it was.

Rakaki - Ρακάκι
Moschonision 2-4, Kaisariani, 161 21, Athens
Μοσχονησίων 2-4, Καισαριανή, 161 21, Αθήνα
Tel. 210 7237457

Hot Hot Burger Bar @ Piraeus

I have past in front of Hot Hot on Kolokotroni Street in Athens, but have never stopped to eat, because there usually was a lot of people and because I am not really a burger fan.

But one day, we decided to drop into the outlet in Piraeus which opened, I think, several months ago.

Hot Hot Burger Bar offers and has made a big success with gourmet style burgers for very affordable prices, starting from 2 Euro.

I ordered Classic Hot Hot Burger, which came with a slice of cheese. I do not know the difference between this one and their cheese burgers

It tasted all right for a burger of 2 Euro. Nice change from a souvlaki wrap which costs more or less the same.

If you want potatoes, you should order separately. In the photo is potato wedges with cheese and bacon. Very filling.

I did not like the service here, but it is not really a restaurant and you won't expect so much. You can order from home, too. If you like burgers, you'd like to give it a try.

Hot Hot Burger Bar
Grigoriou Lambraki 91, Piraeus
Γρηγορίου Λαμπράκη 91, Πειραιάς
Tel. 210 4102444

Premiera Again @ Kallithea

2 Sundays ago, we went to Premiera in Kallithea. It looks that I did not write about it the last time we paid a visit and this was our second. It is housed in an elegant residence building and the interior is quite nice. This time, however, we sat down in the courtyard; it was a bit hot, but there was some breeze from time to time.

It was totally vacant when we arrived at around 2 o'clock, but started to fill from 3 o'clock on by the people who looked and/or sounded like Russian Greeks (i.e. the Greeks who moved from the former Soviet Union countries and their kids and grand kids).

First come was warm pieces of bread and garlic butter colored by red beet. Good, but you really should be aware that it fills your stomach.

Crepes (which is not the real name) filled with yellow cheese as starter. Very nice but a bit heavy, maybe I should have chosen minced meat or smoked salmon version.

Here is the starter for GH: fried potatoes. Besides, his main course was a pasta dish (as you will see later). Do not ask me why. He said that they were delicious. Lucky for him.

Caesar salad with croutons, grilled chicken and Parmesan cheese. We should have ordered something more Russian, but it seems that the Russians do not have habit of eating raw vegetables. As it was a hot day and I needed fresh veggie, I ordered this and was happy with the result.

My main dish was pork shashlik, which is like an enormous souvlaki. The meant had some fat and sinew, but it was fine for me, as I do not a big fan of clean fillet.

GH got Russian ravioli with ricotta cheese served with butter and sour cream. I think he ordered the same dish when we came here for the first time. He loved it, but had difficulty finishing all, as he has eaten too much already.

But you don't say no to the ice cream at the end in such a hot day (on the house).

The bill was a bit above 30 Euro, which we think is excellent value for money. Very much recommended.

Premiera
Doiranis 29, Kallithea, Athens
Δοϊράνης 29, Καλλιθέα

Tel. 217 716 9500

Ooops!

Wow. It is already July. Can't believe it. I skipped one whole month of blogging!

There is not much change around me: always same job, same flat, same husband, same internet provider. I guess I am just passing more time in gym than before and have less interest in restaurants for some reason.

We still go out to eat. Yesterday, for example, we went to Safka in Kerameikos using a discount coupon.

Delicious and beautifully presented food, but I am afraid it does not worth the price if I have to pay in full.

Most of the customers were with coupon, but it might not mean anything considering that we are under capital control.

I have never thought to live to experience capital control in person. So let's say it is a good experience. Life is full of surprises.

Last Sunday, 61% of the Greeks refused to accept the third bailout programme suggested by the Lenders, saying "Big No", as were advised by the government and now 250 from 300 members of the Parliament endorsed the terms even worse than the people refused, as was proposed by the same government. What is even more intriguing is that the people do not seem much angered. The Big No turned out to be a Big Yes, in reality. Life is full of contradictions, too.