2nd Visit to Mono @ Plaka

We returned to Mono in Plaka in a Friday afternoon (we had a day off). Regarding our previous visit, click here.

It was not exactly a lunch time (it was around 4 o'clock) and there wasn't much people, although there were steady trickles of patrons, some foreign some Greek.

The menu has not changed since our last visit in May. They had 2 "today's dishes", but they were just two kinds of fish.

The waiter asked if we wanted bottled water. Probably we could say "no" and could ask for tap water, if we did not want it..

On the table there are olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and spice mix including pepper.

Again, the waiter asked us if we wanted bread. We said "yes", but we could have said "no" if we had ordered, for example, a risotto. It was a nice gesture.

For two slices of bread and some glissini sticks, 1.50 Euro per a head is a bit expensive (but, hey, we don't eat that much bread).

We ordered just one appetizer "Sea", which is a salad of raw tuna, cucumber, mango and black sesame.

I did not think that tuna was enough fresh to be made into sashimi, but, still it was delicious. Portion size was a bit small, though. 8 Euro.

This dish reminded me of a similar appetizer I had eaten at Kuzina in Thissio. It was made of salmon instead of tuna and cost €14 in 2010. I wonder if they still chage the same price.

GH ordered "Lamb". According to the menu description, it is "Rack of lamb served with sweet potatoes & tomatoes a la Provencal €15.

I found it very dry and hard, but it was because GH ordered it "well-done". I believe lamb roast should be eaten "pink". But, whatever, it wasn't my dish. The tomato thingy and potato were very nice, though.

I ordered a rib eye steak medium-rare and it came medium, I think. The meat wasn't not as good as wagyu beef, but still, it was the first satisfactory beef steak I managed to eat in Greece (because, in Greece, there is no aged beef). €18 is normal price for a good quality rib eye.

We wanted to order Pistachio crème brulée, but they did not have it. A classic one, instead. 6 Euro.

Evidently, the caramel crust was made to order and it was still warm, while the lower custard was chilled. Nice.

We had also two espresso (€1.50 x 2) and a glass of wine (€4). The total bill came to €59, but I could claim 30% discount from it and paid €45 incl. tip.

Expensive, if it were a taverna, but it isn't. To be fair, we should rather compare it with, say, Eat at Milton's or Kuzina. From this point of view, it is a good value for money restaurant.

Mono
Benizelou Palaiologou 4C Plaka, Athens,
+30 210 3226711
http://www.monorestaurant.gr/

Mono @ Plaka

Yesterday evening Greek Husband and I visited Mono in Plaka - at the edge of Plaka being close to the Cathedral - without reservation, around 8 o'clock.

(This photo was shot when we were leaving; when we arrived, there still was some sun light).

In the main area, only about one third of the tables were occupied, but the serving staff told us that the empty tables were all reserved and sent us upstairs where was cold (it was an unusually cold day for mid May). A man who looked like the chef came and turned on a heater and we felt all right (I have a suspect that they sent us there because we had a discount card and wanted to reserve the better tables for the fully paying customers, but, if it were so, I don't complain as in the matter of fact I was not paying as much as those who in the better area - justice was made!).

We were asked if wanted tap water or bottled water. A nice gesture, although we got a bottled water.

I knew that Mono had became a tapas bar and I expected tapas on the menu, but there wasn't any. A waitress told us that they have switched to summer menu and I wondered that they changed also the chefs. The menu is divided into starters, salads, pasta & risotto, main dishes (meat and fish), and dessert. The description sounded like Greek with Italian touch. They gave us also a wine list where there are many choices and all of them could be served in glasses. The cheap(est, I think) bottle was priced 12 Euro, so it is very good as restaurant-wine-price. A glass was from 3 Euro, I think.

Bread basket. The slices of bread were toasted and drizzled with olive oil, sea salt, and thyme (I think it was thyme, not oregano, but I might be wrong). The sticks are grissini. We ordered also two different glasses of red wine (4 and 5 Euro each).

There was a rather long wait until the starters arrived and we finished the bread till then.

This is a starter called The Cheese. The white balls are a mixture of anthotyro, mint and either cream or yogurt, drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The cheese was nice, but the salad was even better; red lettuce (trevisano), mint leaves, sliced pear, caramelized onion etc.

This is another starter called The Veggie. A sliced grilled aubergine, various grilled tomatoes, zucchini, and red/yellow peppers, flavoured with generous amount of fresh thyme. White paste is citrus-flavoured yogurt, I think. Essentially an interpretation of grilled vegetables (verdure ai ferri). Nice, although I thought it should be less salty.

Main dish. Shell pasta with seafood came unfortunately lukewarm. This was an interpretation of Greek octopus pasta. It came in a generous portion. If you were a big eater, you might be happy, but otherwise you get a bit board keeping on eating the same thing. I would rather give it a pass.

Another main dish, slow cooked pork belly, served with roasted peach and sauteed French beans. This again came in a generous portion. The pork was soft and there was a smoky flavour. We liked it very much, although we did not managed to finish all the fat (it was pork belly; what can we do?). The French beans were sauteed with butter. But, the meat being so fatty and sticky, I think it is better to be served with French beans with vinaigrette.

We did not manage to arrive at the dessert and concluded two espresso.

Now, the bill. Without discount, it came to 54 Euro (we actually paid 38 Euro + 5 Euro tip). We both thought it was quite fair value for money, even without discount. GH, who paid 25 Euro at a grill (psistaria) the day before, was very impressed. And it is in Plaka!

Mono has changed over the years. I know at least 4 phases without actually eating there, so how many more. At this moment, I think it is in a positive phase. Try to visit while they go through yet another metamorphosis.

Mono
Benizelou Palaiologou 4C Plaka, Athens,
+30 210 3226711
http://www.monorestaurant.gr/

Taverna O Thespis @ Plaka

So. If you live in suburbs of Athens, not that you find much chance to eat in Plaka, while it is the absolute favorite for the common tourists to find somewhere to experience Greek/Athenian dining.

Working in tourism industry, I thought I should know what the tourists are eating. Visit to Geros tou Moria was the first of my experiment. And here is the second: Thespis Taverna on Thespidos Street.

The restaurant is situated at the upper end of Thespidos street. It looks small, but actually has a quite large space outside.



The menu is classic taverna fare without twist or creativity (and it is OK not to be creative for Greek cooks, because most of the Greeks do not like innovation).

Bread.



I like this sort of yellow bread. Tyrokafteri was clearly homemade and mixed with black pepper. Nice. But 4.90 Euro for this? Really?



And a Greek salad. Looking from the top, it looks ordinary, but strangely there was shredded cabbage below the tomatoes.



Fried potatoes were freshly made and we liked them. I guess it is not easy to find fresh fried potatoes in Plaka.



As main dish, we had oven baked lamb (9.90 Euro) to share. It was very soft & juicy, as it should be. It is totally different from the roast lamb that the English people make. Greek oven roast lamb is like stewed inside the oven.



Over all, we liked the food, although it wasn't particularly cheap. We will be happy to return, if we happen to be there.



Bill, please!

Bread 0.80 Euro x 2 = 1.60 Euro

Water 1.80 Euro

Coke 1.80 Euro

Greek Salad 6.50 Euro

Tyrokafteri 4.90 Euro

Oven Baked Lamb 9.90

Euro Fried Potatoes 3.50 Euro

== Total 30 Euro



Taverna "O Thespis" 18 Thespidos, Plaka Tel. 210-3238 242



Ταβέρνα Ο Θέσπις Θεσπίδος 18, Πλάκα

*****************

Geros tou Moria @ Plaka Athens

One Friday evening, Hubby and I visited for the first time a mousiki taverna (taverna with music) in Plaka.

Around 8 past in the evening, Mnisikleous street was deserted. We wondered if it was due to the time, to the season, or to the Crisis.


(The bright fortress above is Acropolis).

Mniskleous Street is in upper Plaka and lined with some music tavernas (Mnesikles is the name of the architect of Propylaia).



We wentered a music tavern called Geros tou Moria (Old Man of Morea), sister restaurant of Palio Tetradio which is situated in front.

Who is the Old Man of Morea? Theodoros Kolokotronis, of course.

When we entered only two tables were occupied, while two bouzouki & guitar players were playing and singing (to the right). They were later joined by a blond female singer.



The menu is standard Plaka fair, but 20%-30% more expensive.

Seasonal Salad (5.50 Euro) was a mixture of cabbage, red cabbage, red capsicum, caper and olives.



This salad was actually quite all right, if under-seasoned (but salt was in our reach).

Fried potatoes (4 Euros).



On the menu, it was written the potatoes were fresh, but they were clearly frozen potatoes. Lying to the customers is a big No No.

Crepes with spinach and feta cheese (8.50 Euro).



Served lukewarm. It was OK, but could and should have been much better with a bit of skill and care.

Veal with aubergine (12.50 Euro).



Although it tasted all right, meat was cheap cut with big sinew. Aubuergine was deep-fried once and consequently quite heavy.

After 10 o'clock Greeks started to arrive and the restaurant got half-full. Some people started to dance. Hubby ordered 1/4 little of wine and seemed to start to enjoy the environment.



For the whole package we paid about 40 Euros + tip. It isn't worth coming here only for food, but with a bit of wine and music, it can be a modest entertainment.


Geros tou Moria
Mnisikleous 27, Plaka
Athens
Tel.: +30 210 3221753
Fax: +30 210 322386
http://www.gerostoumoria-restaurant.com/

Jewish Museum @ Plaka, Athens

Uploaded a page about the Jewish Museum of Greece in Plaka, Athens.

Until the Second World War, Greece was a home to as many as 78,000 Jews and there were several flourishing Jewish communities. The one in Thessaloniki was particularly large and prosperous.

The Nazi Germany brought most of them to concentration camps and massacred. When the war ended, only 10,000 Jews were living in Greece. The Thessalonican community lost 97% of the Jewish population and virtually extinguished.

Nowadays not more than 5,000 Jews live in Greece.

The Museum collects the items to preserve the memories of this lost world.

During the period of Jewish pogrom, the general attitude of the Greeks was - so far as I know - that of passive resistance, although a small number of them collaborated, while some resisted eagerly risking even their lives. I read an impressive story in the museum and I wish to share it.

From the island of Zakynthos (Zante), no Jew was sent to the concentration camps thanks to two brave Greeks: the mayor Lukas Karrer (spelt also as Lucas Carrer) and the Metropolitan bishop Chrysostomos. In 1943, the German commander of Zakynthos, Behrens, ordered the mayor to hand in the list of the Jews. Karrer and Chrysostomos resisted for some time, but giving into the German pressure, they produced a list. But it included only two names, those of Karrer and Chrysostomos. They sent a letter to Hitler guaranteeing the good conduct of the Jews on the island. The German Headquaters decided to leave the Jews of Zakynthos untouched.

There is no doubht that the German commander of Zakynthos was more accomodating than elsewhere in Greece, but ultimately it was the courage of two men that saved 275 Jews on the island.

Ta Giouvetsakia @ Plaka, Athens

Last Wednesday was an unusual day for me.

Usually I lead pretty quiet life. Weekdays especially. Go to school in the morning and do some work at home in the afternoon, then wait for Hubby to return at around 9 o'clock. When we finish dining, it is too late to go out, so we remain home until bedtime.

It was different last Wednesday. First, after school, two of my schoolmates took me to school canteen for lunch. Food wasn't nice, but good was the company. Then I went home.

While having a coffee in front of my PC, an ex-language schoolmate of mine invited me for a drink in Athens. I accepted the offer and went out to get a bus.

While I was waiting for a bus, another friend of mine from UK asked me if it was ok to meet in the evening. I remembered vaguely that there was that appointment, but not having heard from him until that very day, I took it for cancelled (he was visiting Greece only for a week for work staying in Athens only for some days, so it seemed probable to me that he would run out of time). Luckily, the time he suggested was quite late, so I could make for both meet-ups.

Then, while the ex-schoolmate and I were walking around looking for where to settle, we met another ex-school friend of ours just by chance!

Now that I think, the whole last week was unusual. Monday I met another person for a coffee and Thursday as well. Friday with another person for dinner.

It must have been a chance, but I cannot help but thinking if all these have any hidden meaning.


Personal matters aside, now I have to write about this restaurant Ta Giouvetsakia. I did not took any photo this time and the one below was taken last year.

This is the retaurant I went with the friend from UK I mentioned above. There joined another friend who lives now in Greece but I first met in UK. This restaurant was suggested by the English friend who has been here several times in the past.

We ordered three mezedakia, three main dishes and one salad. The mezedakia = orektika were fava, tyrokafteri and boiled beetroot. The main dishes were fried gavros (anchovies), beef with aubergine, and baked chicken and fried potatoes. The salad was shredded cabbage and carrot. We had also a half kilo of house wine.

Let's go more into the detail. The orektika dishes were all fine. Tyrokafteri looked suspiciously white - not cheesy white, but snow white - but on tasting it, it was quite acceptable with nice kick of green fresh chili. Mashed fava (=yellow split peas) was decorated with chopped fresh red onion and olive oil. Never having eaten fava in this way (but this is the commonest way of eating fava in Greece), I could not compare, but I liked it. Boiled beetroot was again fine: very sweet with only slight earthiness.

Among the main dishes, the one looked the best was the beef with aubergine. It came in small youvetsi earthen ware. Judging from the name of the restaurant, the dishes cooked in youvetsi are their specialities. The other main dishes and the salad were also ok.

After the meal, we were offered semolina halvas for free.

The total bill for 7 dishes and 1/2 litre of wine came to just below 50 euros (I cannot give you the break-down, as our server never returned us the receipt). For the central Plaka, the price looked fair. I won't go back there with Hubby, but if I need to take foreign visitors to Plaka, this place is an acceptable choice.



Ta Giouvetsakia (Γιουβετσάκια)
144 Adrianou and Thespidos
Plaka, Athens
210-3227033

Kyria Rita's Cat @ Plaka

Walking down Adrianou Street in Plaka, I saw this cat sleeping. Again.



I saw the same cat sleeping at the same stop last summer. See these photos.

It was no wonder, in fact. It is because the cat belong to the lady who has the shop on Adrianou Street.



If you are familiar with this area, you should be able to recognise the small tapestry hanging on the wall. It is Kyria Rita's shop "Roka". She makes these tapestries in a workshop just below her shop in Adrianou; you cannot find anything more local than her tapestries!

I remember to have bought a small thing from her more than 10 years ago. I don't have it any more, as it was a gift; I might buy one for myself to decorate our rather sober flat.

Diogenis @ Plaka, Athens

Last Sunday, Hubby and I enjoyed cold drinks at Diogenis Café & Restaurants in Plaka. It might be difficult to see in this photo, but the space under the poplar trees are the cafeteria and restaurant.

The monument that you see on the right side of the photo is the Choregic Monument of Lysicrates. Behind is the Athenian Acropolis, of course.

Plaka area is generally closed to car trafic, but this place is particularly quiet as it is not even facing to pedestrian passage (you can pass here if you want to, but probably you won't).

I had a bottle of sparkling water (€3) and Hubby had a flappé (€3.50). Not cheap, but we are paying for the location and not really for the liquid we consume.

Very tranquil and pleasant place to spend the lazy time like Athenians.

Diogenis
Plateia Lyskratous 1, Plaka, Athens

Διογένης
Πλατεία Λυσικράτους 1, Πλάκα
Τηλ. 210-3224845

Strolling in Plaka and Thissio

Today is Palm Sunday. We are supposed to go to church, but Hubby is still sleeping. I don't know if we are really going.

By the way, these are the photos taken on this Friday.

As it was Friday, Hubby said we have to go to stay out in the evening and we made an appointment at Monastiraki Station. Having arrived early, I took a walk around Plaka.

It has been some time since the last time I saw Lysikrates Monument. There was quite a lot of people hanging around in the small park in front.

There is Hadrian's Arch behind me; I quite like this location.

A train was running through a street of Plaka.

Obviously, no. It wasn't a train, but a tourist 'bus' in the shape of train. I guess it is a good way to see the main tourist attractions in the area for those who have difficulty in walking. Elders and families with very young children, for example.

Now, wisteria is blooming.

I don't see wisterias in Piraeus, but there are some in this area. The combination of purple wisteria and the old mansion was strikingly beautiful.

Hubby arrived late at the appointment and was too tried to stroll, with a heavy laptop bag hanging on his shoulder. We walked toward Thissio and ended up in a mezedopoleio called Kallipateira.

We avoided very busy Adrianou Street and entered in a back street and avoided meat restaurants (we are still in Lenten period). It was a very pleasant night and we sat at one of the outdoor tables. We ordered 4 plates (one arrived late for this photo call) and a bottle of beer.

In the food wise, it wasn't better than the average and 2 euros for 4 thin and small sliced bread were really too expensive.

We then took ISAP (Ilektriko) to go home.

Rambling Tortoise

Some additional photos from the Greek Popular Musical Instruments Museum.

The museum, converted private mansion, has a lovely courtyard and there are some trees and ancient marble pieces. There was cherry blossom flowering.

The leaves belong to another tree planted togather with the cherry, if you were wondering.

And there were two rambling tortoises: this is one of them. Greece is full of tortoises. If you go to large parks or archaeological sites, here they are. I remember that the Kerameikos archaeological site was particularly full of them.

But then, inside the museum, I saw this.

I wondered if they are pasturing tortoises to make this kind of instruments. hahaha

Plaka and a Sleeping Cat

Usual stroll around Plaka (north east fringe of Athenian acropolis). I love Plaka. Not for the souvenir shops or for tourists, but here I can get the feel of old - not ancient - Athens. It is so full of atmosphere.


I never manage to come around here in the evening. I really have to, as it should show me another face.




Although the streets are busy and noisy, in an old town, there always a relaxed air.



Just hiding behind something, he was deeply asleep....



while tourists from all over the world were passing by.