Pernirli Shop Stamatis @ Exarchia-Omonia

I am on annual leave these days, because I have to use up my entitled day-offs until the end of year due to the rules of the company I work for. GH does not intend to do so, as he does not have to. So I went to the National Archaeological Museum on my own. There was quite a lot of foreign visitors and later I figured out that many should have come to Athens to participate at the Athens Classic Marathon to be held this Sunday.

I spent about 4 hours there and came out hungry. I intended to go to have a coffee and sandwich at Taf (cafeteria) in Emm. Benaki street, but on my way there I came across this Peinirli shop called Stamatis. It was written that the dough is prepared there and baked there.

It does not have tables, but it has some stools.

There are about 10 types of ready peinirli and when you buy they put it in the oven to reheat it. It is the same system also at Ionia, famous peinirli bakery in Panormo, but at Stamatis the oven isn't that traditional one that Ionia has.

I chose a peinirli with Gouda cheese and soutzouki (sort of salami/sausage). It was supposed to be 2.60 Euro, but I was charged 2.90 Euro. When I paid, I thought that it was my mistake, but later found out that the girl who served me was new and did not know prices very well. Never mind for 30 cents, but maybe you'd better be careful.

The peinirli was fantastic. The dough was very soft and fragrant. Although one piece was enough to fill my stomach, I was craving for another just to try a different flavor. So I bought 2 more for home (that was when I saw the girl did not know the price and was being instructed by her senior).

I like lot better soft dough of Stamatis than the hard one of Themis of Drosia.

The prices are between 1.90 and 2.90 Euro, and mainly either 2.30 or 2.60.

Now that so many souvlaki places, pie shops and bakeries are opening, why not peinirli shops?

The shop is open only office hours (Mon.-Fri. 8:00-18:00 and Sat. 8:00-15:00, Sun. Closed), but if you happen to be in the area and need a snack, please do try.

Stamatis-Σταμάτης
Akademias 77 and Emmanouil Benaki 19 (at the corner)
106 78, Athens, Exarchia-Omonoia area
Tel. 210 3300 055.

Ακαδημίας 77, Εμμ. Μπενάκη 19
Τ.Κ. 10678, Εξάρχεια, Αθηνα

Later I walked toward Kolonaki to meet GH and stumbled upon a taverna of which name I have heard so many times, but never seen. It is called Kapetan Michalis.

It is really a small place and occupy all the width of a pedestrian walk (illegally maybe?) Very interesting, but it is very difficult for me to be here at meal time. A shame.

Peinirli of Drosia @ Themis

For some years, I have been hearing about that Peinirli in Drosia. I have been always curious about it, but I did not have a chance to try, until the other Sunday.

We made up our mind and, after some reading on the www, I made a reservation at this restaurant.



Themis. I found at least 3 Peinirli places in Drosia and this one seemed to have the best reviews. It has a private parking, which is convenient, but there is plenty of space to park outside as well.

The building is rustic and warm; I liked it. The most of the patrons looked are families and looked to be familiar to the place.



The taverna has grilled meat dishes as well as peinirli, but, as you can imagine, 4 out of 5 people were eating Peinirli.

The price in general is expensive. Tzatziki is 4 Euro, Melitzanosalata 5 Euro and Peinirli are around 9 Euros. And portion size is just average.

Instead of bread, we were served with these pita bread.



I found it too tough to chew.

We ordered also cabbage salad (which was a mixed salad), melitzanosalata, and fried potatoes. The red wine was awful.



Here is Peinirli with minced meat and egg.



And Peinirli with pastourmas and egg.



On the menu, they were both 9, but for one of them, we were charged 9.20. I do not like when restaurants do this. Charging a price different from the one on the menu should is a fraud!

The taste wasn't bad, but, again, I found the dough to be too tough to enjoy.

We shared the table in 4, and the total bill was 58.40 Euro, including the obligatory order of bottled water, which you could have avoided paying, if you were a regular.

The other members of our group liked the peinirli more than I did, but, anyway, I don't think it is worth a trip from Piraeus (if you live closer, you can go and try to see if you like it).

I would rather go to Ionias in Ampelokipoi for a better peinirli.


THEMIS-ΘΕΜΗΣ
Ikostis Pemptis Martiou 25, Drosia, Athens
25ης Μαρτίου 25, Δροσιά, Αθήνα
Tel. 2106229409

Peinirli @ Ampelokipoi

After some research about Peïnirli in this post, I've got curious about this Turkish-Greek-Pontic delicacy.

Until then it was for me just a cheesy bread sold at any pie stand, but having realised that it possibily offers more, I was looking for an occasion to try some better examples.

It came when we were walking in Ampelokipoi area. It wasn't a restaurant, but was a bakery specialised in Peïnirli.

The shop is called "Ionias" (Address is 3 Οδός Πανόρμου. I don't have the phone number, as they did not give us receipt). Inside, it was something between pizzeria and bread bakery. There is a counter and behind it is a oven from which a Peïnirli man continues to bake fresh Peïnirli.



There are 6 or 7 sorts of toppings. I was attracted by the one with anthotyro, but I thought I should try first more classic one.

I bought one with kasseri cheese, mushroom and sliced tomato. Before handing it to me, the girl at the counter aksed if I wanted some butter on top. I said "Yes" of course! :)



Hubby went with yellow cheese (I don't remember which cheese was it), ham, sliced green pepper and mushroom.


I think ours cost €2.30 each (it differs according to the toppings).

Now, bread. I think this section photo can tell you something. It is relatively heavy and 'gooey' if it is the right word (probably it isn't, but I cannot find any other).

The cheese was of better quality than in usually pie stands.

I could not finish it because of my poor cheese capacity, but my cheese man finished his and my half.

I am quite happy with the experience and will continue searching good peïnirli.

Peinirli @ Grigoris

On the other day I ate a Peinirli at Grigoris (Greek fast food chain).



Peinirli might not be as famous as Tyropita or Spanakopita, but is a very popular snacking item in Greece and you can find it almost any pie & coffee shops. It is a boat-shaped piece of bread (dough is similar to that of pizza) baked with plenty of cheese and either ham or bacon.

Not being a big fan of pie pastry, I buy peinirli more often than not. As you can imagine for such a simple food, how good it is depends on the quality of the ingredients, especially of cheese. To be honest, I didn't like Grigoris's peinirli, because it tasted something other than cheese and ham, something like mayonnaise. (I liked much better 'special croissant' of Grigoris - cheese and ham baked in croissant dough).

What I has been wondering about Peinirli is that, regardless of rather obvious Turkish etymology, why the same food in Turkey is called 'Pide' rather than Peinir something.

The name Peinirli seems to have its origin in Peynir - Turkish word for cheese, which originates in Persian word for cheese Panir that is very familiar to us as an Indian white cheese.

Why the Turkish cheese pide came to known as Peinirli in Greek remained as a mystery. My hypothesis is that, as pide can be cheese pide or meat pide and the Turks used to call it 'cheese pide', the Greeks dropped 'pide' part and started to call it just 'cheese'.

Does anybody have an answer? :)