Walking around Omonia Square

I walked around Omonia Square on 28 November 2014 and these are photos that I took then.

The reason to uploading these pictures is to remember the current situation of the area.

Omonia is not one of the nicest areas of Athens. Or I'd rather say that it is almost a symbol of urban degeneration. Tourists are often warned: Do not go around Omonia and never book your hotel in the area even the rate is very attractive.

The fame of Omonia was such that a couple of years ago, two large hotels on the square, Acropol and 2 Fashion were closed down and they remain inactive since.

There were talks and attempts of revamping the square from time to time, but has never really accomplished. The government's latest project of renovation "Rethink Athens" (pedestrianization of Panepisthimiou Street, which runs between Syntagma Square and Omonia Square) has suffered a setback as the European Commission has decided against the funding recently. Athens is still trying to convince the EC to change its mind.

How is the situation now?

Here is the square.

It was 9 o'clock in the morning and there was nothing menacing. There was quite a lot of cars and commuters (I took pains to take the above shot without cars so that the view was unhindered).

As in the other areas of Athens, new bakeries have been popping up. I found a new outlet of Attika Artopoieia (this chain was used to be named Attiki Fourni, but has changed its name recently; I have no idea why).

Hondos Centre is still there. This is one of the flag shop of the retailer and has been here as long as I remember (the years I remember are not long, but at least 10 years). If you are interested, there is a cafeteria at the top floor and you can have a nice view.

There are many stalls selling koulouria. It is a bit similar to pretzel. In Turkey, these dry, circular and sesame-coated bread is called Simit and in both countries people eat it typically as breakfast or snack. It tastes unexpectedly better than it looks, especially when it is fresh. If you have never tried it, you should. One koulouri costs 50 to 60 cents.

A tyropita shop selling "Divine Cheese Pie". It is a shop called Gianniotiko, which has another outlet on Panepisthimiou Street. I don't remember that it had an outlet on Omonia Square. There is also a souvlaki shop of the same name just next to it.

The single most conspicuous change in the square, I believe, is the new outlet of Veneti bakery. It has also many tables and chairs in front of it.

The building was once occupied by a self-service restaurant-cafe called Neon, which had another outlet in Syntagma. Both were closed down. Although the premises in Syntagma were taken up by another restaurant, this one in Omonia had been unoccupied since 2010 till December 2013.

And to my surprise, I found a reminder of Neon on one of the tents of Veneti.

This is very nostalgic for people who know Athens for decades.

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My walk did not end in Omonia. I walked into the area between Athinas Street and Tsandari (Pireos) Street, where is now an Indian-Pakistani-Chinese quarter. My impression, though, is that Indian-Pakistani-Bangradeshi are more eminent here and the Chinese on the other side of Pireos Street (so-called Keramikos area, which should not be confused with the area immediately by the Keramikos metro station, which is called 'Gazi').

At some points, you feel as if you are somewhere in India or Bangladesh. I guess this is a barber shop, judging from the sign of scissors.

And now there are many Indian/Pakistani fast food outlets. (This one was closed just because it was too early in the morning; many opens only after the lunch time).

An Indian/bangladeshi/Pakistani restaurant I have never heard of. Attractive.

It is situated on Geraniou Street, which once was too shady that even I would try to avoid. It is still not a nice and shiny, but it felt much better than before.

Another restaurant of which name you can read only if you know Arabic. As it says "Grill House", it should be a kebab place.

I remembered my days in Birmingham, UK.

Then I walked into Evripidou Street, behind the Vegetable section of  the Varvakio Central Market.

Here also, the feel was much less seedy than before.

This newly restored building is occupied by a new grocery shop with eat-in section, called Karamanridika tou Fani . It sells cured meat products of Sary and meze dishes to eat-in.

Just across is the street is another famous pastourmas shop, Miran.

And next to Miran is another of the genre, Arapian.

This part of Evripidou Street is now frequented by foodies, from Athens and abroad and it is almost a tourist attraction.


Overall, my impression from the area was positive. Although it is still a seedier part of Athens, but it did not look like a slam anymore.

Hope it gets even better!

Taf coffee @ Omonia-Exarchia

Visited yesterday Taf coffee in Omonia area. It is really a small outlet in comparison to the fame it has.

Taf is reputed to serve the best coffee in town and a cup of cappuccino costs only 2.20 Euro (and a bit more for special varieties). You might say that what is the best depends on everyone's taste and I do agree with you, but in this case there is some foundation to the claim; that Taf is not just a cafeteria, but also a coffee producer and whole-seller. If you are interested, go and dig in their website for more info.

You might have seen the logo elsewhere in Athens. It is because their coffees are being sold at other cafeterias.

We had cappuccino and it was indeed good.

Another of the coffee lovers' cult-centers is Tailor Made in Platia Agias Irinis, but it is often so full that you cannot find anywhere to sit down (it is because Tailor Made attracts even those who not interested in coffee). Taf instead is much more low-key and better for those who want to enjoy one's coffee more quietly. Note, however, that the indoor space is very limited.

Taf Coffee
Emmanouil Benaki 7-9, Omonia, Athens
Εμμανουήλ Μπενάκη 7-9, Αθήνα
Tel. 210 3800014
http://www.cafetaf.gr/
Closed on Sundays and Saturdays until afternoon. 

Pernirli Shop Stamatis @ Exarchia-Omonia

I am on annual leave these days, because I have to use up my entitled day-offs until the end of year due to the rules of the company I work for. GH does not intend to do so, as he does not have to. So I went to the National Archaeological Museum on my own. There was quite a lot of foreign visitors and later I figured out that many should have come to Athens to participate at the Athens Classic Marathon to be held this Sunday.

I spent about 4 hours there and came out hungry. I intended to go to have a coffee and sandwich at Taf (cafeteria) in Emm. Benaki street, but on my way there I came across this Peinirli shop called Stamatis. It was written that the dough is prepared there and baked there.

It does not have tables, but it has some stools.

There are about 10 types of ready peinirli and when you buy they put it in the oven to reheat it. It is the same system also at Ionia, famous peinirli bakery in Panormo, but at Stamatis the oven isn't that traditional one that Ionia has.

I chose a peinirli with Gouda cheese and soutzouki (sort of salami/sausage). It was supposed to be 2.60 Euro, but I was charged 2.90 Euro. When I paid, I thought that it was my mistake, but later found out that the girl who served me was new and did not know prices very well. Never mind for 30 cents, but maybe you'd better be careful.

The peinirli was fantastic. The dough was very soft and fragrant. Although one piece was enough to fill my stomach, I was craving for another just to try a different flavor. So I bought 2 more for home (that was when I saw the girl did not know the price and was being instructed by her senior).

I like lot better soft dough of Stamatis than the hard one of Themis of Drosia.

The prices are between 1.90 and 2.90 Euro, and mainly either 2.30 or 2.60.

Now that so many souvlaki places, pie shops and bakeries are opening, why not peinirli shops?

The shop is open only office hours (Mon.-Fri. 8:00-18:00 and Sat. 8:00-15:00, Sun. Closed), but if you happen to be in the area and need a snack, please do try.

Stamatis-Σταμάτης
Akademias 77 and Emmanouil Benaki 19 (at the corner)
106 78, Athens, Exarchia-Omonoia area
Tel. 210 3300 055.

Ακαδημίας 77, Εμμ. Μπενάκη 19
Τ.Κ. 10678, Εξάρχεια, Αθηνα

Later I walked toward Kolonaki to meet GH and stumbled upon a taverna of which name I have heard so many times, but never seen. It is called Kapetan Michalis.

It is really a small place and occupy all the width of a pedestrian walk (illegally maybe?) Very interesting, but it is very difficult for me to be here at meal time. A shame.

Imperial Town Chinese @ Omonia

Several days ago I went to the Chinese restaurant Imperial Town near the Omonia Square.



It is in the seedy part of Omonia area, unfortunately, but the restaurant itself looks totally innocent, run by a friendly Chinese lady.

As you see in the photo, the decor is minimal, which is all right so long as you don't come expecting something else.



The menu is long and written in three languages - English, Chinese and Greek. I chose a cup of hot and sour soup, a small bottle of water...



pork and Chinese pickles accompanied by rice.



The soup was just ok, not really either hot not sour. The pork was unfortunately excessively salty which I could not have eaten if I did not order plane steamed rice.

The price is low. If I remember well I paid about 10 euros including about 10% service.

Comparing to the Chinese food I used have in Birmingham (UK), the food was only average, but in Athens, where there are few decent Chinese restaurants, Imperial Town is a gem; Chinese food lovers can enjoy authentic Chinese food for a good price.

Livadia @ Omonia, Athens

When I went to Polytechnio on 16 November, I stopped at the souvlaki shop Leivadia (read 'Livadia') near Omonoia Square. It is a pretty famous souvlaki place and you can find it even on foreign guidebooks.

Here, there is only one main dish you can order: pork souvlaki for 1.20 euros. In this sense, it is similar to Telis Pork Chop House.

In this case, souvlaki means grilled pork skewer, and not pita wrap with grilled meat and accompaniments. I should rather call it 'kalamaki' to be clear and have to stress that Livadia does not sell pita wrap version.

Now, this is the procedure:

1) Go to the cashier and pay for whatever you want (besides pork skewers, you can order side dishes like chips, Greek salad, feta etc, and drinks).

2) Go to the bar counter to order drinks and side dishes (except chips) showing the receipt given by the cashier. If you want wedges of lemon, you need to ask here.

3) Then go to the grill man and tell him how many pork skewers you paid for. Here the grill man snatch the receipt from you, so be careful. The grill man will hand you the skewers on metal plate, after dipping them into lemon juice. If you don't like non-fresh lemon juice, you'd better tell him beforehand.

4) You can either go to one of the tables or counters, and serve yourself with bread and water, if you want.

5) Livadia's kalamakia are not loaded with salt as in many souvlaki joints; you can splinkle as much salt as you want at table/counter.

6) Eat!


The grilled pork cannot too wrong in general, but Livadia's pork souvlakia are more special because 1) it has right amount of fat content (if you don't like pork fat, it is not a place for you), 2) they don't cook the meat to death and the meat remains pink and juicy.

I will take Hubby there next time.

Leivadia
Gladstonos 7

Check out "Gate to Greece" http://www.mesogeia.net/athens/estiatoria/leivadia_en.html for more photos!

Grill Square @ Omonia Square, Athens

One day I casually visited Grill Square in the Omonia Square.



I don't know the exact address, but, as you see in the photo, it is directly facing to the Omonoia Square and just next to Macdonald's.

They allow both take-out and eat-in (self-service) and the price does not differ. Besides gyros and kalamaki, they sell also grilled chicken.

I had a pork souvlaki in pita (1.80 euro) and a bottle of water.

Fine. No complaint.

The best thing about this place is the seating space. In Omonia Square there is the famous Gonia souvlaki shop, but it does not have seat. I have to stress also that the shop is clean and bright enough that even a lone woman can eat-in without feeling uneasy. I will be probably back.

Hell's Kitchen near Kotzia Square, Athens

Visited Hell's Kitchen near Kotzia Square in a weekday afternoon for a quick lunch.



I read recommendations of this place on various websites; they say that the young owners of Hell's Kitchen passed their student years in New York and are trying to recreate the food and ambiance they enjoyed in Big Apple, and they serve non-Greek food for an affordable price. That was what I knew before I actually paid a visit.

From outside, it does not look particularly attractive. It is a hip place, but is more bohemian than stylish.

There are not so many tables inside, maybe around 10, but there are a dozen of bar stools and extra tables on the first floor, not to mention many tables outside. When I entered at around 2 o'clock, only 4 or 5 tables were occupied, but later more people arrived and the tables inside were almost all taken. They were people for lunch, and not for drink; evidently their clientel - mainly from 25 to 40 year-old age group - have their lunch pretty late. Their was no air-conditionning and it could get quite hot inside.

While the outdoor tables were not as popular as the indoor ones; this is quite unusual for Greece where people do their best to eat al fresco during the summer. It tells us something about how nice (?) was the environment of this neighbourhood; it is not far from the infamous Omonia Square.

To be honest with you, I did not look closely into the menu, as I picked up one of daily specials told by waitress. The little I read was the pasta section; they are around from 8 and 12 euros; not particularly cheap, if not expensive either.

I ordered marinated and grilled chicken breast, which was served with tomato rice. As you see, it was nicely presented; nice presentation of food is still a rare thing in Greek restaurants of the middle and lower ranges. It is something distinguishes Hell's Kitchen from the other restaurants of the same price range.

But on the taste front, it did not go well; it wasn't bad, but not good either. Chicken breast was still brand regardless of marinating and needed extra salt (which was fortunately provided on the table). I was wondering if I could cook a better chicken grill and concluded I could. Tomato rice was better and more interesting.

And what struck me was the lack of vegetable; if the waitress warned me it does not have any veggie on the side, she could have sold more.

I did not order any drink and paid 10 euros for the main dish. Again, it is not particularly cheap, though not expensive. I would have said reasonable, if the chicken tasted better.

This is not a kind of place where I personally want to return. However, if you do not like Greek food, or you have had enough of Greek food already, Hell's Kitchen offers you something different and gives you a little surprise. And they have a lots of wine and cocktails; if you like these things, you would have enjoyed more than I did (me being no drinker). I would also like to mention that this is a good place to eat alone. In Greek tavernas I sometimes feel that many dishes are designed to be eaten in more than one person. In Hell's Kitchen, the food comes on individual basis and you don't have to feel embarassed in front of 300 or 400 grammes of meat (but I am not saying that the portion is small; on the contrary!)

Hell's Kitchen (Restaurant and Bar)
Kleisthenous 13 (Κλεισθένους 13 )
(Near Kotzia Square)
Athens, Greece
Tel. 210-5241555
http://www.hellskitchen.gr/

Oriental Sweets from Xanthi

Visited the Athenian branch of Sarayli Saray near Omonia Square. I have seen quite a lot of publicity of it on free papers and got curious.



From the publicity I had an impression that there was seating space, but actually there wasn't. It is quite small, but there is are quite many things inside. The shop is from the town of Xanthi in northern Greece (the shops in Xanthi are evidently called "Fresh Co") and this shop, opened in October 2009, is their first Athenian venture.

I had an idea of buying Kazan Dipi, but it did not look as good as the one I bought a week ago from another shop, so changed idea and bought some baklavas.



The girl of the shop was enthusiastic and happy to explain which is what. They have many exotic sweets that I have never seen (although I admit not to have so much experience with balkavas).

I sampled 4 pieces of siropiasta (syrup soaked sweets) and there are two of them.

This is baklava with pistachio nuts of Aegina. 2.50 euros.




It did not have as much pistachio as I would have liked and the texture was rather soggy (lacked in crispiness), but had a nice flavour, probably because of the good ingredients.


Again another of baklava type sweets made with Aeginian pistachio. 2 euros.



This one was eaten by the wife of my bro-in-law and she said it was nice.

On the other hand, another one I ate wasn't very nice, being too dry and lacking in nuts content.

All in all, it is probably above average, but I have known better ones. However, the variety of sweets here is huge and the price seems reasonable. I don't mind coming back when I happen to be near.

Sarayli Saray
Aiolou 105 & Panepistimiou (near Omonia Square), Athens
Πανεπιστημίου και Αιόλου 105, Αθήνα
http://www.sarayli.gr/

Foreign Ministry's Translation Service Office

Last week I went to the Official Translation Service Office in Psirri area of Athens.


This is the place where you obtain official translations of your public or private documents. For example, if you are a graduate from foreign university and need to prove that you have a bachelor degree to Greek public offices, they often ask you to have your certificate translated into Greek by this Translation Service.

For some reason, Greek public offices sometimes look very shabby and the Translation Office is a good example. It is in one of back streets of Psyrri - is it only me who smells always urine in seedy parts of Psyrri? - , and predictably, around the building, there are a lot of scarely looking "foreigners".

My document was in English (they don't do Japanese) and they told me it would take two weeks (there is also express service, but, not being in a hurry, I opted for normal). I had to fill in the form and pay part of the fee (the rest of the fee, when it is done). You need to have your ID number (of ID card or passport) with you when you apply; they don't check the ID on acceptance, but they will when you come to collect the documents.

This is the webpage (in Greek, but don't panic and just use Google Translate; "Greek to English" works pretty well, although "to Japanese" translation is an absolute nightmare and I presumre the same for other minor languages).

Address and Opening Hours :
Arionos 10, Psyrri, 10554 Athens
(Αρίωνος 10, (περιοχή Ψυρρή), 10554 Αθήνα)
(I could not manage to paste the map, so I just place the link).
09.00-13.00

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Then I tried to contact a friend of mine who works in Omonia area (and, no, she isn't a drug dealer), but I could not reach her. While making several attemps, I ate a bougatsa from Krinos and walked around the Central Market.

I noticed for the first time there is an entrance to the Central Market from Aiolou Street; the passage just next to M&S is the one.

From Lesvos Shop on Athinas Street, a street performer was coming out.


I did wonder what he bought.


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Later in the day, I met a friend of mine and had some souvlaki together in a psistaria called Gyristroula. See the huge plate.